Welcome to Jacket’s Required, hello, I’m Dominic Lacquaniti, designer and tailor.
This week’s episode of Jackets required wraps up our 3 part series on alterations. We’ve talked about hemming pants, altering them through the waist and today I’m going to dig into the details of altering jackets properly.
Altering a jacket requires resetting of the blades and sleeves.
Taking in a jacket, or letting it out, can throw off the balance of the entire garment. How do we avoid this unsightly mess with a proper alteration?
We un-sew the seams and either sew the new seam further into the jacket to make it smaller or further out toward the edge to make it larger.
If you alter any proportion of a garment it will throw other areas off balance so in essence we deconstruct the jacket and create a new pattern for it to be sewn back together with the new, proper proportions.
If you’re altering the shoulder or chest, this involves removing and re-cutting the front and back panels. This also requires removing the lining and re-cutting and re-sewing that as well. This takes many hours of skilled hand sewn work to accomplish flawlessly.
If you are letting out a jacket and it’s an off the rack type of garment, then you may run into the challenge of not having enough fabric TO let it out. Most off the rack suits are made with little extra, being precise in what fabric they use cuts costs for them and they are not concerned about custom fitting to every body type within a size range.
Here is where one large benefit of bespoke jackets comes into play, as your tailor will make your custom suit with extra fabric in order to accommodate the long life span of the garment and the natural changes you may experience in your own body over the years. A great jacket is always worth keeping and a touch up alteration is a great way to keep it looking it’s best on you no matter what.
If you’re going to invest in your clothing make sure it’s an investment that will last through time, go custom from the beginning and you’ll have a lot more flexibility with the garment going forward, ensuring a long life for it and a lot of enjoyment by you.
Hopefully I’ve shed some light on the behind the scenes of what it takes to make a solid quality alteration to your jacket and the amount of skilled craftsmanship that it requires.
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Thanks for watching. See you next week. Remember, looking good is between you and your tailor…